0815-1030 Lanis, still damp from this mornings session. turned out it was quite a bit bigger than I mentioned on the phone report to LG. 1.5xOH to 2.5xOH plus. all by meself way the fuck outside Holtons. Mixed up and sectiony, but clearly strong north component. Just enough west to shut it down across the middle. Early was glassy and fun, 3 people out before me got cleaned out by a biggie that shut down all the way across Holtons to the rip between lanis and Himmas. I lucked out was still in the channel watching. They went in, it was pretty sketchy, lotsa people watching on shore . Little later i nailed a nugget, rode it till my legs almost gave out. On the paddle back out I shouted howzit to Kolohe Bloomfield who was tagging the rights on the inside off the rip. Bunch of stoker rides but barely squeaking by bottom turns, solid DOHplus, shoulda brought my 7'0' as I was a bit undergunned on my 6'1"
As morning went on, it became inconsistent but when the sets did come they kept gettting bigger... plus the surface got choppier and closing out more. Last 30 minutes i caught squat, and eventually got cleaned up by a macker, pushed way in. Sat near the end for while, finally snagged a sweet one, a rare one that i worked almost to shore (low tide) only had to paddle about 25 feet to the sand. kinda scary out there woulda been less stressfull with someone else out there too. but still a very satisfying session.


