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maleko

Postby maleko » Mon Mar 22, 2004 2:38 pm

townie_boy wrote:she was 5'6, skinny, big chichi, tan and super pretty local girl.

wait i thought u guys were talking about pu in sai? ? :lol:


town clown :oops:

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Adder
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Postby Adder » Mon Mar 22, 2004 6:57 pm

isla natividad in baja when i was a grom.
bout 6 feet, nice and round, all the way around the point at open doors on my lil 6'0 for a week straight during a summer southern hemi.
never been anywhere else as clean and perfect as that place.
big fun pascuales and puerto, but those places tend to get a bit sloppy.

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Postby LGREANZ » Tue Mar 23, 2004 10:00 am

Awesome entries folks !!!
Got me craving OTW, Fiending for 3rd Dips and salavating for some SE outter reef kine tube time.

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Bud
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Postby Bud » Tue Mar 23, 2004 10:47 am

Saturday November 17, 2001
7:30a-10:30a
North Shore (Rocky Point)
Avg wave face 6-8 feet
Sets wave face 9-10 feet, occ bombs (NNW)
Clear skies; Calm, turning light onshore late morn

Drove out in my car with Neal & Rich. Met Tom again at Ehukai. Pipe/Backdoor was going off in the pre-sunrise glass but already packed to the hilt and looking mean. The abundance of surf is moving the beach around and 2xoh waves were breaking very close to dry sand, sucking out and eating people up. Not exactly what I was looking for with my first run on a virgin 6'3"

Rich and Neal couldn't wait to go out and get some and Tom wanted to film the heavy action. I decided to walk down to Rocky Rights for some workable walls. Jumped in at Pupukea and let the current take me down. 6-8 foot faces and the surf is just going off! A couple head high test waves and I realize immediately - The new stick is sweet! Now if I could just keep it off the rocks....

The sun came over the mountain and the surf suddenly started to pick up. For an hour and a half, relentless and solid double-o sets poured through. Several water photogs in the impact zone. The beach at Rocky Pt was lined with dozens of still and movie photographers; A helicopter filmed/hovered above for a while too. It was incredible. There were several pros who were doing some amazing things in the intense surf, most of the faces look familiar but I can't put names to 'em. I saw some of the deepest and longest tube rides I've ever seen in person. When you weren't scrambling for the horizon, you were hooting at _gaping_ barrels, reeling across the break. Took a major commitment to drop into a wave, especially if you rode it for more than several seconds - knowing that paddling back out was gonna be hell.

I hung out on the rights in front of "the rock" and was constantly getting creamed by bigger and bigger sets, mostly closing out. Once I even got slammed and dragged onto the reef, right in front of the photog gallery, how embarrassing. At least I was not alone and I kept my board from drydocking! A bit later I tagged a sweet 1.5xoh bowl and backdoored it... easily the longest tube ride I've had all year. Standing erect and hand dragging the wall, room to spare all around. Going, going and going. Found I was holding my breath - when I straightened out just before it shut down I took a huge gasp of air. Had to control myself from throwing my hands into the air hahaha. Man I was stoked. On the paddle back out, I tried to duck a set and got thrown back into the whitewater and ragdolled to the bottom with a deathgrip on my board. My left hand, hip and knee looks like a wildcat tore me up... somehow my board escaped damage though. Big pain and lots of blood, I was thinking I might have broken my hand so I let myself get pushed back onto the reef and limped across the shallows to shore. Sat on the beach for 15 minutes to take a breather and assess my wounds. Hip and knee were minor, gashed and swollen knuckles unable to make a fist with my hand. Hurt like a mofo but no breakage & still surfable. Sitting on the beach I saw that Rich had come down from Pipe. He caught a big left from Gas Chambers, riding it all the way to "the rock" at Rocky Rights - working his 7'9" with big snaps and long bottom turns around fast sections. Yeehaa!

Back out for round two, a little more conservative. The surf was dropping fast, the last hour of my sesh none of the big sets at all. A very light onshore wind kicked in. Eventually me and Rich started working our way back up the coast to end the morning closer to Ehukai. Later, we ran into Neal who came down from Pipe too; Then Tom paddled out to join us at Pupukea for a few waves just before we called it a day.

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Bud
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Postby Bud » Tue Mar 23, 2004 11:01 am

I clealy remember this fat tubage on a solid day out at Lanis

Monday April 1, 2002
1:45p-5:00p
North Shore
Avg wave face 7-9 feet
Sets wave face 10-14 feet, bigger early, dropping later (N,NW,W)
Mostly sunny; Light variable/onshore winds (N)

A strong low pushing big but erratic surf for the past few days. After yesterdays disappointing sesh out at Makaha, I was
determined to find something challenging. From what I gather, the source is too close to produce well groomed swellage, but WOW, what a great day in the surf today... I got the challenge I was looking for, and then some - the sets seemed to hit from a
different direction each time they came in.

Bagged work early. Went home for lunch, packed my 7'3" and headed out. I pulled up to an almost deserted parking area; just a few tourists laying on the beach, a lone fisherman throwing net and a C&C Water Safety truck parked halfway on the sand. Strangely (word?) empty of surfers in the country today, on the drive up I saw only a couple cars with boards; thanks, I think, to the local news, surf reports and word of mouth about the size/conditions. It *was* mostly true, as it looked pretty messed up and big. It looked like a washing machine from shore. Plus, I could see that the outer reefs were still sometimes breaking and plowing all the way through to the "regular" spots.

But I was on a mission. 14' @14 seconds, the sun was blazin, the wind just barely blowin and there was not a surfer in the ocean as far as I could see... the main thing, though, was the occasional freight train reeling across the middle to the inside.
Double-oh plus and chaotic, but surprisingly smooth and very do-able, I thought... just stay toward the "channel", rush in,
tag a makeable wave here -n- there and keep clear of the danger zone. <hope my wife does not read this>

Pulling my board out of the car, I swear I could almost sense the lifeguard in the truck rolling his eyes and shaking his head. I
looked to see if it was Bloomfield or someone else I know, but he drove away before I crossed the road. At the water, after
thoroughly checking my leash, I jumped "upstream" into the current, so that by the time I got around the inner whitewater,
I'd (hopefully) be smack in the outgoing rip. Worked perfectly, almost effortless paddle out, letting the ocean river do the
work.

Lining up wasn't easy being so far out and with the waves breaking all around, often blocking the view of shore. When I got
my bearings and close to my intended take off zone, I kept reminding myself to take it easy, *try* not to do anything more
stupid than I already was by surfing alone and half way across to Molokai. It was an hour before another surfer came out. By then, I had moved up to the outer point and was having so much of a good time I was happy to have someone else to verify that the waves were f&#*ing sweet! Struck up conversation with the guy - "Argy" - a college student (schooling here) from, you guessed it - Argentina. Said he saw me getting some good waves and decided to join me. Turned out to be a damn good surfer who was fully charging too. He air dropped into one of the biggest sets of the day, making it to the bottom before hydroplaning and spinning out. Later I got a shot of him with the disposable camera while paddling back out. He snagged this one from the outside and raced it, here he is setting up for the middle section http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/040102argy.jpg Unfortunately a second later the wave fully heaved and shut down. Because I was always on guard for poundings, it was almost impossible to get a decent pic.

The surf dropped steadily all afternoon and a few people came out, but they all stayed on the inside near the channel. Argy saw
me backdoor a gaping barrel, in broken english tried to tell me ??? but best described it with a smile and arms spread apart
(plenty of room in there). Right up there among the best tubes I've made this season.
My new 7'3" round pin flies through
sections and turns on a dime - I can carve hard in the pocket without any worry of slippage. Sooo stoked on this board, suuuper light for a gun, my biggest concern is breaking it (6oz top + double 4oz bottom, 3/8" stringer).

3 hours of long rides & high wave count... mixed in with constant thrashings by sneaker sets from all over the compass, my arms
grew so sore that I could barely paddle to get away from the impact zone fast enough. To top the session, I milked my last
wave from the point and when it shut down on the inside, was able to prone the whitewater almost to shore. Covered some serious distance with that one!

Walking up the beach, I saw Agry's board floating about 50 yards offshore, heading for the rip. I went out and paddled it back in; when I got it on the beach and looked out to sea for him, some guy walked over and pointed to where he (Argy) was just coming out of the water about a quarter mile down (long swim!). This guy then told me how his leash had snapped too, and how the lifeguard on the jetski had chewed him out for getting taken out by the rip (apparently he had to be rescued).... oh wellllll, at least it wasn't ME! ;)

Solid surf and no crowd = Monster fun day late winter season swell & Stoked Bud! Sorry Rich you missed it- shoulda went
surfing today hahahahahaha

Good surfing to you,

Bud

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Postby surfstarved » Wed Mar 24, 2004 11:27 am

Can't remember the exact date. Must have been late seventies or early eighties. Out at Lanis on 6-7 Hawaiian, fully north, offshore almond eyes. Funny, I don't remember catching the wave, but I do remember seeing a guy on the shoulder as I pulled into the barrel and then one of those "time expansion' type of moments as I saw three distinct sections pitching over as I was traveling through the tube. When I exited the wave, I saw that the guy who was on the shoulder when I pulled in, was about 50 yards further out then I was. Cherish the memories! :shock:

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Postby HMARK » Mon Mar 29, 2004 11:49 pm

Whoa!

dreams of fat tubbies and colossal spits are flooding the mind now.

If ya got a spare couple bucks, pick up John Clarks book, "Hawaiian Beaches , place names and surf spots' lotsa info on da names of surf related spots & shit.. good reference and fun read...mo'olelo...stories of life...
~ God created surfboards so the truly gifted would not rule the world ~


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