I clealy remember this fat tubage on a solid day out at Lanis
Monday April 1, 2002
Avg wave face 7-9 feet
Sets wave face 10-14 feet, bigger early, dropping later (N,NW,W)
Mostly sunny; Light variable/onshore winds (N)
A strong low pushing big but erratic surf for the past few days. After yesterdays disappointing sesh out at Makaha, I was
determined to find something challenging. From what I gather, the source is too close to produce well groomed swellage, but WOW, what a great day in the surf today... I got the challenge I was looking for, and then some - the sets seemed to hit from a
different direction each time they came in.
Bagged work early. Went home for lunch, packed my 7'3" and headed out. I pulled up to an almost deserted parking area; just a few tourists laying on the beach, a lone fisherman throwing net and a C&C Water Safety truck parked halfway on the sand. Strangely (word?) empty of surfers in the country today, on the drive up I saw only a couple cars with boards; thanks, I think, to the local news, surf reports and word of mouth about the size/conditions. It *was* mostly true, as it looked pretty messed up and big. It looked like a washing machine from shore. Plus, I could see that the outer reefs were still sometimes breaking and plowing all the way through to the "regular" spots.
But I was on a mission. 14' @14 seconds, the sun was blazin, the wind just barely blowin and there was not a surfer in the ocean as far as I could see... the main thing, though, was the occasional freight train reeling across the middle to the inside.
Double-oh plus and chaotic, but surprisingly smooth and very do-able, I thought... just stay toward the "channel", rush in,
tag a makeable wave here -n- there and keep clear of the danger zone. <hope my wife does not read this>
Pulling my board out of the car, I swear I could almost sense the lifeguard in the truck rolling his eyes and shaking his head. I
looked to see if it was Bloomfield or someone else I know, but he drove away before I crossed the road. At the water, after
thoroughly checking my leash, I jumped "upstream" into the current, so that by the time I got around the inner whitewater,
I'd (hopefully) be smack in the outgoing rip. Worked perfectly, almost effortless paddle out, letting the ocean river do the
Lining up wasn't easy being so far out and with the waves breaking all around, often blocking the view of shore. When I got
my bearings and close to my intended take off zone, I kept reminding myself to take it easy, *try* not to do anything more
stupid than I already was by surfing alone and half way across to Molokai. It was an hour before another surfer came out. By then, I had moved up to the outer point and was having so much of a good time I was happy to have someone else to verify that the waves were f&#*ing sweet! Struck up conversation with the guy - "Argy" - a college student (schooling here) from, you guessed it - Argentina. Said he saw me getting some good waves and decided to join me. Turned out to be a damn good surfer who was fully charging too. He air dropped into one of the biggest sets of the day, making it to the bottom before hydroplaning and spinning out. Later I got a shot of him with the disposable camera while paddling back out. He snagged this one from the outside and raced it, here he is setting up for the middle section http://www.wavelust.com/bsl/040102argy.jpg
Unfortunately a second later the wave fully heaved and shut down. Because I was always on guard for poundings, it was almost impossible to get a decent pic.
The surf dropped steadily all afternoon and a few people came out, but they all stayed on the inside near the channel. Argy saw
me backdoor a gaping barrel, in broken english tried to tell me ??? but best described it with a smile and arms spread apart
(plenty of room in there). Right up there among the best tubes I've made this season.
My new 7'3" round pin flies through
sections and turns on a dime - I can carve hard in the pocket without any worry of slippage. Sooo stoked on this board, suuuper light for a gun, my biggest concern is breaking it (6oz top + double 4oz bottom, 3/8" stringer).
3 hours of long rides & high wave count... mixed in with constant thrashings by sneaker sets from all over the compass, my arms
grew so sore that I could barely paddle to get away from the impact zone fast enough. To top the session, I milked my last
wave from the point and when it shut down on the inside, was able to prone the whitewater almost to shore. Covered some serious distance with that one!
Walking up the beach, I saw Agry's board floating about 50 yards offshore, heading for the rip. I went out and paddled it back in; when I got it on the beach and looked out to sea for him, some guy walked over and pointed to where he (Argy) was just coming out of the water about a quarter mile down (long swim!). This guy then told me how his leash had snapped too, and how the lifeguard on the jetski had chewed him out for getting taken out by the rip (apparently he had to be rescued).... oh wellllll, at least it wasn't ME!
Solid surf and no crowd = Monster fun day late winter season swell & Stoked Bud! Sorry Rich you missed it- shoulda went
surfing today hahahahahaha
Good surfing to you,