First surfboard/ oldest board/ what age did u start?

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Puerto_Rico_Surfer
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First surfboard/ oldest board/ what age did u start?

Postby Puerto_Rico_Surfer » Mon Jun 21, 2004 1:12 am

Since my mother is getting ready to sell the old house ( the house I lived my whole life in), I have been cleaning it out. And I came across my first surfboard a 2 weeks ago.

It is a 5'8 x 20.5 x 3.5, winged, swallow tail, twin fin ---The Mark Richards Superman board..I bought it on 1982

Surprisingly it was in good shape considering it was my first board and had been moved around by my mother for the last 20 years, it had dings only on the twin tips , the nose, one on the rail and a nasty crush ding on the under side that i had repaired and done a horrible job (but hey I was only 11).

I spent the week repairing it and yesterday I took it out for a go in sloppy 2-3 foot surf, well it felt like a little skateboard but man I had fun. I plan to take it out on the next decent swell, so I wont be struggling on waist to chest high waves. I noticed the board started to really work well when I had at least a HH wave and could generate some speed.

I noticed though that board gives the sensation of slipping sideways slightly when turning hard, though I am not sure if this is because its a twin fin, or the fact it is so small, or maybe I am just nuts? Any ideas?

The board may only be 5'8" but hey MR won 4 consecutive titles on the the exact same board shape and size, and he is my height 6'0".

I started surfing around age 8 or 9 riding my big brother's board when he would take me to the beach. Though it was just the small white water shore break stuff, wasnt until I finally got my own board at 11 that I started paddling out and surfing what at the time seemed like humungous waves at 3-4 feet.

Ever since then I have been suffering from surfing cocaine, I get withdrawl symptoms when I havent been in the water for at least 3 days.

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Haoleboy
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Postby Haoleboy » Mon Jun 21, 2004 10:07 pm

My first real board was a Rich Parr Swallow Tail. 6'0", Robins Egg Blue. He sold it to me for $60. I was stoked to the bone on that board.
Rich had to leave the Island because he shot and killed someone who was connected.
Anyone know whatever became of him?
Owoooooooo!!

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surfer9joe
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Postby surfer9joe » Mon Jun 21, 2004 11:06 pm

7'0" red dick brewer single fin, in Miami; 16 years old (16 years ago, 1/2 lifetime!)
Why Wouldn't Ya?

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HMARK
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Many many moons ago....

Postby HMARK » Mon Jun 21, 2004 11:39 pm

First board was actually a pair of really old churchill swim fins my Dad had in the back of our 63 Valiant Station Wagon. Sandys. Fired up and ready to go at age 10.

Got my first (new) board from my Grammies cousin, Fred Hemmings. It was a Surfboards Makaha - shit I think it was around a 7'0" or so back in 1970. Hip as shit. Yellow. Killer pin tail. Fat ass rails. Hugemongous green single fin. ( what the hell a green fin was on a yeelow board - what WAS you smokin? ) Big deal board for 75 bucks. I remember picking it up at the Hemmings' house - all kinds a boards in the rafters - Always remember this one big blue board with a surfers cross on it - 'The Blue Max" - I can still remember dreaming about what monsters that pup rode.

Used to ride bike w/ my friend Sean Paige down outta da valley in Hahaione, down the dirt roads past the pig farms and shit over to Sandys pre-dawn. We used to sit on the beach and wait for sunrise, all young and surf stoked. Ripped shorts, $1.00 in change for hit the lunchwagon acroos the highway after. Seans brother was a 70's ripper/photog. We used to sit in his room and scope out his brothers 8mm films he made of the country - I wonder what those clips are worth today? Sooper fun shit. All kine behinds the scenes weirdness - We ate that shit up like it was new found porno or something.

I'd probably give my left nut to have that board and those times back.....
~ God created surfboards so the truly gifted would not rule the world ~

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Puerto_Rico_Surfer
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Postby Puerto_Rico_Surfer » Tue Jun 22, 2004 3:25 pm

Yeah the good stuff, this is what I like, we all have memories of our first and the story to go with it. Its good reading, Keep posting....

maleko
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Postby maleko » Tue Jun 22, 2004 7:25 pm

My 1st surfboard was a Hobie longboard from the 60's. I broke the fin off in some shorebreak. I had no clue on how to fix it so I left it bust up ever since then. I still have the board now (bust up and laying in the garage). My 2nd board I bought for $50 ... It was a Natural Art surfboard 5'5" thruster... I hated it and sold it and bought a body board. I still have all my wave riding vehicles... except for The Natural ART. I've been surfing for over 20 years now. and have choke boards :D
Everybody talkin, talkin , talkin dat trash

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Bud
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Postby Bud » Tue Jun 22, 2004 10:45 pm

my first board was a the front half of a super thick Robert August shape someone gave me before our family left Guam for Oahu back in 1977. I was a clueless 13 or 14 year old .... I used a hack saw to "clean up" the jagged break, cut it into a massive, gnarly 'swallow tail' - then used that green marine/boat resin & cloth on it. used a jig saw to cut out a squiggly plywood fin and then again used the boat resin/cloth and slapped it to the bottom. didn't sand anything down, hot batch resin and monster thick weave cloth strings like steel wire was murder on me.

was at the beach, either res camp, maili or makaha, etc. every day, sun up to sun down... this waianae kid learned a lot that first year in Hawaii


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