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Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 6:40 pm
Where the hell u stay?
Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:37 pm
that commie, he's living in a box in NYC #occupying wallstreet
Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 9:29 pm
For real? OWS is pretty wild right now. Hope our bro is safe
Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 8:44 pm
Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 9:32 pm
We need to get togethee for another surf my brother
Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 8:51 am
Sorry for the long absence, HMARK but I slipped off the wagon and it's been a long road back. I got hooked on bodysurfing. At first it was just experimentation and then all of a sudden I started getting invited on trips to Baseland on the condition that I didn't bring a board. After that it was all downhill. Sandy's, Mak's, Waimea Shorie, Keiki's, Gums. Driving past Jox on a proper day in search of closeouts. All but forgot how to bottom turn except on the giant longboard while taking the GF out for lessons. I had hit rock bottom. Fortunately for me the GF wants to date someone who 'really surfs', most likely because boards look cooler and it's hard to understand the dynamics of bodysurfing until you've had the sensation of drowning in overhead waves breaking in a foot or two of water. But that's the Dafins and Birdwells talking. Recovery is a never-ending process. Must stay vigilant.
Bought a 6'6 firewire about a month ago and have experienced merciless pummelings with the occasional 'a-ha!' moment in between. Trying to keep myself distracted by borrowing demos from the Futures fin trees around town. My back muscles are adjusting to deal with prone paddling and duckdiving, and I'm starting to get the timing figured out again. Hopefully I'll be ready for some slashy slashy when we get the first real town swell of the year on Thrusday. Looking forward to screaming at kooks to get off of my wave as I drop in on longboarder girls, and hosing down skinny body boarder kids on the shoulder with big buckets of spray just to show them who's the boss. Most of all I look forward to posting up some pics on wavelust and pretending that I know how to surf, cause if I can get ten guys on the internet to believe some BS is actually true then anything is possible.
Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2012 9:25 am